Have you noticed the growing popularity of modal fabric in the fashion world? In this blog, I will delve into the reasons behind this trend.
Firstly, let’s define modal fabric. Simply put, modal is a semi-synthetic textile, also known as high wet modulus rayon.
Introduction
Modal fabric is renowned for its softness, lightweight, and lustrous finish, making it a favourite for its draping qualities. Originating from the cellulose of beech trees, this cellulosic fibre is transformed into exquisite modal fabric through meticulous spinning. Initially developed as a cotton alternative, modal fabric is an enhanced version of rayon, boasting a silky texture and enhanced durability.
Straddling the line between natural and synthetic, modal fabric is plant-based—often sourced from beech or bamboo-but its production involves chemical processes to convert wood pulp into modal fibres and yarn.
Modal fabric’s ability to manage moisture makes it ideal for activewear, intimate apparel, and even bedding.
The inception of modal dates back to 1951 in Japan. When blended with cotton, the modal fabric offers the sleek exterior of silk with the comfort of cotton on the inside.
Its molecular structure grants modal fabric impressive strength, and it resists shrinking thanks to its unique surface tension and fibre characteristics.
The modal fabric also provides a comfortable stretch, drapes elegantly, and remains cool to the touch in humid conditions. When compared to other rayon textiles, the modal stands out for its robustness and shape retention. Moreover, it’s a more skin-friendly choice than synthetic fabrics like acrylic, polyester, spandex, or nylon, as it doesn’t contain petroleum-based materials and thus doesn’t release microplastics during wear or washing.
Manufacturing Process
Modal fabric is produced using a unique production process that closely resembles that of viscose rayon. However, it boasts superior structural qualities and has a reduced environmental impact. The production process begins with the harvest of beech trees. The cellulose-rich chips, which are about the size of postage stamps, are extracted and purified. The initial purification stage extracts cellulose, discarding the remnants of the tree.
Next, the extracted cellulose is transformed into sheets by dipping it in vats of sodium hydroxide during the steeping process. Modal fabric production uses significantly lower concentrations of sodium hydroxide compared to viscose rayon, which minimizes toxic waste generation. Once steeping concludes, the sheets are broken down into crumbs, which distinguishes the production process of modal fabric from that of traditional viscose rayon by skipping the ageing step.
Unlike viscose rayon production, the crumbs undergo a unique transformation. They are directly immersed in carbon disulfide, turning them into an orange substance known as sodium cellulose xanthate. At this stage, the cellulose derived from trees loses its purely organic nature. The next step involves immersing this cellulose xanthate in caustic soda again, resulting in a syrupy solution. Remarkably, the modal fabric production process omits the ageing phase once more, immediately forcing the syrupy substance through a spinneret to form fibres.
These fibres undergo further treatment, including immersion in sulfuric acid, stretching, and shaping into yarn. The resulting yarn undergoes a series of treatments, including washing, bleaching, rinsing, and drying, before being loaded onto spools. At this juncture, the modal yarn is prepared for additional treatments such as pre-shrinking, fire resistance, or wrinkle resistance, offering customization options before being woven into the final fabric.
Modal fabric, also known as High Wet Modulus (HWM) rayon, is a testament to the marriage of organic and synthetic elements in its production. Initially introduced in Japan, modal fabric production quickly spread across Asian countries, with China and India emerging as leading exporters. The process, rooted in the harvesting of beech trees, follows a systematic sequence, emphasizing the extraction of cellulose as the fundamental raw material.
In summary, modal fabric, a commendable evolution of viscose rayon, boasts a production process that prioritizes structural superiority and environmental considerations. From the harvesting of beech trees to the intricate steps of cellulose extraction, steeping, and fibre formation, the modal fabric production process showcases a commitment to sustainability and product excellence. With China and India at the forefront of modal fabric exports, the global textile industry continues to benefit from this innovative and eco-conscious material.
Properties and Characteristics
- Stretchy: Ideal for activewear like t-shirts and athletic wear.
- Soft: Used in bed sheets, pyjamas, and undergarments due to its incredible soft touch.
- Breathable: Great for sportswear and everyday clothing, thanks to its breathable weave.
- Water Absorbent: 50% more absorbent than cotton, making it effective in managing moisture.
- Durable: Known for strength and durability, suitable for garments and housewares.
- Drapes Well: Exhibits a beautiful drape, ideal for clothing and decoration.
- Eco-friendly: Made from regenerative plants, with fewer chemicals used in production.
- Doesn’t Pill: Resistant to pilling, ensuring a smooth finish for everyday wear.
- Colour-Fast: Absorbs dye well and doesn’t bleed during laundering.
- Doesn’t Shrink: Less likely to shrink compared to other forms of rayon.
- Biodegradable: Completely biodegradable.
- Doesn’t Crease: Resists wrinkles, maintaining a smooth appearance.
Use and Care
Modal serves as an alternative to silk or cotton, commonly used in sportswear like yoga pants, bike shorts, and swimwear. Its sweat-wicking properties, ease of cleaning, and durability make it a preferred choice. While less absorbent, it finds use in household textiles like bed sheets due to its silky texture.
Modal is easy to care for, similar to cotton. It can be washed in cold water and tumble-dried on low to medium heat. Washing instructions may vary for modal blends, so checking the label is essential. Use oxygen-based bleach, avoid chlorine bleach, and remove items from the dryer promptly to prevent wrinkles.
Is Modal Fabric Sustainable?
Modal fabric, while sourced from plants, involves the use of dyes and chemicals. The production process, especially exposure to carbon disulfide, poses hazards to workers and the environment. Lenzing, a major producer, introduced TENCEL Modal® with an eco-friendly bleaching method. Modal can be considered eco-friendly if sourced sustainably, using trees specifically planted for this purpose.
The manufacturing process, though more environmentally friendly than viscose rayon, still introduces carbon disulfide into the ecosystem. Efforts to reduce its impact include installing chemical scrubbers in factories. Sustainability also depends on the cultivation and harvesting processes, with many manufacturers using cellulose from trees grown on unsuitable agricultural land.
How Much Does Modal Fabric Cost?
Modal fabric is generally slightly more expensive than viscose rayon, on par with lyocell and cotton. Cheaper than silk, it can be costlier in developed countries where production aligns with sustainability standards. Quality considerations must prevail over cost, as cheaper options might compromise on production standards.
Where Is Modal Fabric Produced?
Lenzing AG, based in Europe with global factories, is a major producer of modal fabric. Other producers, predominantly in China, also contribute to the market. However, caution is advised when dealing with Chinese manufacturers due to lax environmental and workplace safety standards. Modal fabric is also produced in India, Pakistan, Indonesia, Germany, Austria, the United Kingdom, Japan, and the United States.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. Is modal fabric suitable for activewear?
Yes, modal fabric’s stretchiness, breathability, and moisture-management properties make it ideal for activewear, including t-shirts and athletic wear.
2. Can modal fabric be washed in hot water?
While modal can withstand various water temperatures, cold water is ideal. Pure modal can be washed in any water temperature, but it’s recommended to use cold water.
3. Is modal fabric eco-friendly?
Modal fabric can be considered eco-friendly, especially if sourced from sustainably planted trees. The production process, while using fewer chemicals, still has environmental considerations.
4. How does the cost of modal fabric compare to other fabrics?
Modal fabric is generally slightly more expensive than viscose rayon but is on par with lyocell and cotton. It is cheaper than silk but may be costlier in countries with higher production standards.
5. Where is the majority of modal fabric produced?
Lenzing AG, based in Europe with global factories, is a major producer of modal fabric. China is a dominant producer, but caution is advised due to lax environmental standards. Other production countries include India, Pakistan, Indonesia, Germany, Austria, the United Kingdom, Japan, and the United States.